Amalfi Coast, Italy
- More about your Oliver Guide: Kelly Ronquist
- Trip type: Solo, Beach, City
- Activity level: moderate
- Ideal length of trip: At least one week!
to & from
The closest airport is Naples and you should definitely schedule a ride from the airport to the coast. There are some options online but I think the best way is so reach out to your hotel (or host) and ask them for a contact because they all have people that are more reliable.
Ravello: It is busy during the day because people bus up from Amalfi, but then it is quiet in the morning and evening. It is a stunning village on a hill with views everywhere you look. The streets are cute and there is more to explore than you initially think!
Praiano: Considered the sleepy sister to Positano, which I really enjoyed! It has two beaches you can walk to easily and feels more local. You can still do a lot of the same experiences that are offered in Positano (boats, cooking classes, hiking).
Positano: Very busy! I visited at the end of September, so the end of their typical busy season, and it was still very crowded. I am not sure I would need to go back here but it was fun to see. It did have my favorite beach of the trip!
Where to Stay
I stayed in Ravello, Praiano and Positano. Ravello and Praiano are both more chill and have a broad range of options in terms of budget. Positano is expensive no matter where you are staying. Below is where I stayed as a 30-year-old on a budget. All of the places included breakfast, which looks a little different over there but I loved it (think pastries, cheese, toast, coffee). I also was not spending much time at the hotels outside of sleeping, since there is so much to explore. I felt very safe and comfortable at all three places! I will say that rooms are much smaller there than in the States, so just keep that in mind if you are someone who needs more space.
Ravello – Maera B&B – This place was in an amazing location for Ravello! I think they offer some villas but I stayed in a room. The breakfast was simple but enough for me. Coffee, croissant and fruit. The breakfast area is inside, which was the only bummer since it is so nice outside. Check-in was easy, and the room and bathroom were clean.
Praiano – Albadamare Boutique Hotel – A stunning hotel with the most amazing and helpful hosts! They offered a welcome drink, explained the village and how to get around and offered to help book any experiences. The breakfast was amazing and my favorite of the trip. The breakfast area is located outside, allowing you to enjoy the view of the water while being served omelets and coffee.
Positano – Casa Guadagno – If you want to stay away from the craziness of the heart of Positano, then I recommend staying here! It is also closer to Il Fornillo Beach (the more local and less crowded one). The staff were helpful and the breakfast had a lot of options! The building is a bit loud, meaning you can hear everything going on outside of your room, so bring ear plugs for sleeping.
Where to Eat and Drink
You cannot go wrong in Italy, but I found that sometimes the less frilly/fancy places are actually better food! So try and do a little bit of both. Also, if you go anywhere for a drink, they usually bring you a variety of snacks which can actually be more filling than you think.
Ravello: There is a market on Via Roma that offers wine by the glass that I recommend to grab while you walk around. The bar in the Belmond Hotel is stunning! a great place to grab drink and look at the views (or lights at night). Pizzeria Vittoria was a favorite! You either need a reservation or stand oustide the door about 15 minutes before they open and you should be able to get a table.
Praiano: The best meal I think I had all trip was at Trattoria S. Gennaro Pizzeria. It has amazing views and very authentic Italian dishes. Our host told us this is where the locals also eat. For even better views, try Cafe Mirante for a drink at sunset!
Positano: Since I was visiting for a wedding, I did not do as much eating out on the town but I did really like my meal at Ristorante Bruno, which is a little higher than the main center but still along the street with views.
What to Do
I went into this trip with not a whole lot of planning, but I do like to vacation more that way. I prefer to have loose plans and seeing how I feel each day. If you do want to do something specific, I recommend reaching out to your hotel to help you since I think they can offer better companies and better deals than what you see online.
Ravello: I walked down to Minori and then from there did the Walk of Lemons (a highlight because there are places to stop along the way) to Maiori. From there I took the public bus back to Ravello (you do have to transfer in Amalfi, which is a little annoying).
Ravello: Villa Cimbrone is worth it, especially if you can go early or late in the day to avoid the day time crowds.
Praiano: Both beaches, Marina di Praia and Cala della Gavitella are worth it and very different form eachother. Marina di Praia is very small but has a few different bars you can enjoy. There is a very very small free section and a somewhat small beach club. Cala della Gavitella, I liked more because there is more space and had a great sunset. You can also jump off some small rocks to get into the water. There are two beach clubs at this beach that are bigger and looked more lively.
Positano: Il Fornillo Beach is the best! Much better than the main beach and has a huge free area, along with a couple beach clubs. I got there around 10 am and had the beach basically to myself for 2 hours, which felt crazy since Positano is filled with people.
Inside Scoop
The public bus is very affordable and can take you to most towns along the coast, making it a great option if you are traveling light and don’t mind a crowded bus.
Bring great walking shoes! I know it says this everywhere but they are not kidding, I walked so many stairs and was thankful I brought cute sneakers.
If you are coming from the States, I would definitely make sure you have data and service for navigating around, it was very helpful.
What to Pack
People definitely dress a little nicer. I am coming from a mountain town in Colorado, so that might not be saying much, as we are very casual here, but I am glad I brought skirts and dresses, even for walking around for the day. I also would reccomned bringing a smaller bag or backpack for going to the beach or hiking around.
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