Zadar, Croatia
Take the rowboat. For 10 Kuna, a man in head-to-toe white with a floppy hat will row you across the harbor at the west of Old Town in front of The Garden, a centuries’ long tradition still in fine form.






- More about your Oliver Guide: Barbara Ray
- Trip type: Adult, Beach, City
- Activity level: moderate
- Ideal length of trip: One week to a month!
to & from
Zadar is closest to Split, but avoid the much-advertised bus between the two. It’s late, hot (rarely any AC) and slow—usually 3+ hours. Fly into Zagreb and rent a car or take the once-daily flight to Zadar airport. Zadar itself is walkable, and Uber is available, but taxis are as cheap.
Where to Stay
We stayed in an Airbnb, which was great. Stay shoreside on the mainland northwest from Old Town for lovely sea views (but a walk). Inland is walkable to beach/Old Town.
A friend who lives there recommended three hotels:
- Hotel Bastion: Elegant, tony boutique hotel in Old Town near the Sea Organ and The Garden. Welcoming staff.
- Art Hotel Kalelarga
- Almayer Art and Heritage Hotel: Newly opened modern take on ancient life with a restful inner courtyard and art for purchase on the walls.