Santa Teresa and Mal Pais, Costa Rica

• More about your Oliver Guide: Courtney Celeste Fisch
• Trip type: Adult, Family, Group getaway, Beach
• Activity level: moderate
• Ideal length of trip: I would set aside at least a week- there may be a full travel day on each side and you will want to have time to fully “drop in” once you arrive

to & from

This trip is LITERALLY planes, trains and automobiles. There are daily direct flights into San Jose from Miami and Ft. Lauderdale (thank you Southwest Airlines for this option!). Upon arriving in San Jose –

• Take the puddle jumper to Tambor airport. Sansa Air and Nature Air both offer these flights. The cost is minimal- it is mostly flight timing that will affect your decision to go this route (and whether or not you can tolerate the tiny planes.). Once you arrive in Tambor there are car rental places or your lodging may arrange transportation.
• I chose to drive. After leaving San Jose airport I followed the fairly simple route to Puntarenas. It was difficult navigating which direction I was headed when I first started out (my Waze was not working for some reason, it usually does) but once I got started it was smooth sailing.
• In Puntarenas you catch the ferry to Paquera. Drive the car onto the ferry and choose to lay the seat back and rest or lock up the vehicle and head upstairs to watch the sunset (or sunrise on your return trip.). The scenery is breathtaking and a warm welcome after your travel day. Add an Imperial and it is smooth sailing.
• The drive from Paquera to Santa Teresa/Mal Pais is quite simple- the road is mostly paved although it is twisty, turny and dimly lit. You arrive to a dead end on the beach with the option to turn right (Santa Teresa) or left (Mal Pais.). There is plenty of signage to make sure you don’t get lost.
• WAZE usually works and is the preferred navigation system of most locals.

Where to Stay

• Casa Marbella Santa Teresa. I originally booked my room for just myself but ended up sharing with a girlfriend who joined me last minute. The night guard was so helpful in getting us to our room and we finished checkin the next morning. Nothing terribly fancy- but clean and very nicely appointed rooms. The owners are kind and helpful and just want you to enjoy your time. The rooms all centered around the pool and its magnificent views. The hotel is located at the top of a steep hill- but no worries, your bum will just be a touch higher and firmer when you put on your swimsuit! There are shortcuts to yoga and dining from the hotel- to save some burn for the beach!
• Casa Chameleon (adults only)- WOW! Again- at the top of a verrrrry long and steep hill. And located in Mal Pais (which means dead country) so it is desolate. Feel free to swim naked in your private pool and don’t be startled when the white-faced monkeys come tearing through the trees for brunch. This is not for families – perhaps more of a romantic trip, a trip with close friends or a solo trip where you just want to unwind and enjoy the serenity of the jungle. My favorite touch was that I could open the glass door in the shower and turn it into an open-air outdoor shower.
• Hotel Nantipa- Santa Teresa. For families, friends and couples. The location is perfect, on the north tip of the main road but not too far away. On the beach- so no hills. Large room settings for families. Fairly new, so the resort is pristine. The service was impeccable.
• Other hotels include Latitude 10, and Florablanca. Vogue and Travel and Leisure have both mentioned these places. I just didn’t stay there so I can’t offer much.